Wednesday, September 19

Plum Good

Everyone loves a good peach. This simple pronouncement may be the sole thing over which all of humanity can agree upon and find some small consolation. Even bitter rivals deep in peach contemplation might hold truce long enough to escape into shared collective reverie, remembrances of sitting upon a beloved’s lap in the heat and safety of summer slurping sweet nectar from a quickly disappearing orb…

Personally and crushingly true, more often than not peaches have let me down and none too gently either. In drastic self defense I now reserve my indulgences to canned and cling or rarer still, times when experts with access to the choicest specimens hand select their wares for gun shy diners like me. Burned one too many times, I have paid and taken home more than my share of false blushing beauties only to discover a charade too late in the game to recover from. The time worn recipe of emotional let down marred by deception skirted in financial loss have made peach selection and enjoyment a high risk venture- which is partially why I primarily now eat plums.

You see taste and proclivity have strange and secret labors which sometimes travel through the mind and heart more than the tongue. In spite of appearing to be fair weather friend, my loyalties actually run deep through the grounds of time and once along time ago I fell in love with the Laura Ingalls Wilder book, On the Banks of Plum Creek. Given by a friend as a gift, this was preferred and cherished to all others in the well read series. I believe Laura’s affection for the prolific bite sized fruit, warmed and split ripe in the sun sealed my own affections for this oft overlooked pick. And so the commingling of friendship and devotion for another thrust an unknown frontier girl’s life upon my own which henceforth had me inwardly and unconditionally regarding plums as my favorite fruit. Though Little Jack Horner sat in his corner plumbing the depths of his Christmas pie and the very name of this stone fruit happens to be synonymous with excellence and desirability, I still rarely hear folks clamor for this drupaceous fruit. Blending into a crowd, these reserved beauties patiently recede from the foreground while precious jewel like berries and cherries are clucked and cooed over as if newborn babies. On the other side voluptuous peaches, melons, and mangoes are hotly handled and sniffed making internal temperatures rise. Plums fall safely in the middle. Comfortably medium sized receiving no extra attention for being cute or monstrous; their colored coating neither is ostentatious plumage which bewitches.

Rather this gently grooved stone fruit is quietly dignified solidly resting upon the virtues of its own good nature rather than external flash and drama. They are the dependable ones of the fruit world. Abundant, economical and none too fragile, they don’t require eternity to ripen nor do they rot too quickly. Unlike almost every other variety of fruit, I have yet to taste an unpleasant plum. They deliver.

Thin easy-to-eat skin provides just a veneer of spicy sour to counterbalance pleasing juicy flesh. Cooked, heavily pigmented skin lends a rich lustrous purple to jams, compotes and crisps. Terrifically efficient there is also virtually no waste of labor in the eating and preparation with small slim pit which usually cleaves away. I like that plums fit comfortably within my palm intimate friend, its soft skin readily picking up gentle heat from a hand.

Plums remind me that the truest things cannot be hastily judged but rather closely observed. Up close, medium toned fruits illuminate a subtle modulated world of purples, yellows and greens. Amethyst, magenta, goldenrod, violet, and wine these are colors which hint at silk ribbon and crushed velvet. Seeped in nostalgia they are from a yester time, old fashioned with a faint bloom of frost. Paired to the hour they hide in the shadow of dusk where famously they coexist with the decadence of foie gras, the smolder of Armagnac, and the homey comfort of toasted walnuts. And on the shoulders of fall especially in the form of the misunderstood prune, they promise the richness of life as it ages, mellows, sweetens and condenses. If one thinks about it, that really is no ordinary or middling or average thing but rather, something good- plum good indeed.

Spiced Italian Prunes: These are the favorites of my favorites. Small, ovoid and available for a short time, these plums are enjoyable eaten one after another. To jazz them up a little, this compote can be spooned over Greek yogurt or some chocolate ice cream. Fiber-icious too!

Ingredients:
Split and pitted Italian Prunes
Cinnamon stick
Knob of ginger root grated
Water enhanced with a little lemon juice/ wine/ other spirits
Honey

Directions: Put all ingredients in a medium pot being careful not to add too much water. You can always add more as needed. Heat the mixture to a gentle simmer allowing the water to reduce and thicken. Cook until desired softness, when the color relaxes and spreads, but while the fruit still holds its shape. Serve warm over ice cream or cooled as is.

Thursday, September 13

Feed Her Fiber Fodder

In the gay world of food where colors dazzle, spices seduce and flavors wow, fiber is fuddy-duddy bespectacled friend wearing turtleneck and tweed. A humble character to my way of thinking, cellulose resides in an austere category cloistered and shunned yet deserving of at least a soupcon of recognition. To contribute towards this undervalued end I will eschew an otherwise mouthwatering meal option in favor of something with a bit more tooth even when it foretells far from perfect polish. Peculiar but true, my food choice decisions are in deference to the essential inelegant, sometimes stern body friendly fiber.

In a society which trims bread crusts off of children’s sandwiches, strips the hulls off of wheat kernels and unthinkingly trashes edible peels off of fruits and vegetables, we’ve become a people whose palates have gone mute and pasty unable to discern the vital from the not necessary. The far reaching cultural attitudes of our forefathers had people prizing delicacy and equating this with impressive virtues such as beauty and goodness. In the resulting efforts to banish the coarse and crude from the culinary world, denatured grains became triumphant golden staff of refined civil diets leaving base whole foods to the poor few, a down spiraling trend which has continued to pervade tender minds as well. Consider the blemished and indigestible skin, pod, peel, rind, and husk which have been hulled, peeled, popped, and skinned to reveal pristine interior landscapes, the incidental reluctantly bearing way to the elemental. Like a richly textured fabric which offers marching grooves of warp against weft, fiber is the thread which binds and strengthens, interlaces and joins. Not only does it connect this to that, but it is a grain of interest, contrast providing doorway into another world. Imagine a vista or a viewpoint with no differentiation in sight, plastic ho-hum drudge barely worth the effort of engagement. It seems to me that our fiber-thin world has us wanting to be filled, saturated and touched and that the insanity of same has us under siege from an explosion of variations of the truly non-essential kind. Within or without, upon our naked backs in the form of a scruffy nubby fishermen’s sweater or sating our appetites full, the organic dross of plant matter with its unpretentious tooth and cuff, satisfies our most primitive need to enter unerringly into life.

Surprise Morning Glory Muffins:makes 12 muffins Adapted from Whole Foods Recipes

To lead a truly fiber rich life, I often reach for cooked vegetables first thing in the morning. But lest you think I wear a hair shirt while pontificating upon the virtues of flax, I present Whole Grain Morning Glory Muffins which updates the exceedingly dull and puckish bran muffin of day’s yore to tantalizing new heights. While muffins, scones and the such generally leave me cold (too much fluffy bread matter), these nutritious, jeweled and textured treats are kind of like a merry fruitcake without the booze or bother. And with a name like Morning Glory, even grumps must yield a little.

Ingredients:
1 1/3 C whole wheat flour (can do parts of oat flour/ ground flax seed/ spelt flour)
¼ C evaporated cane sugar
¼ C packed brown sugar
1 ½ tsp baking soda
1 tsp cinnamon
½ tsp Chinese five spice
¼ tsp sea salt
2 eggs
½ C grape seed oil
3 Tblsp of lowfat plain yogurt
1 tsp vanilla
½ C drained crushed pineapple
½ C dried cranberry (fruit of your choice)
½ C shredded carrots
¼ C unsweetened flaked coconut
½ C chopped walnuts

Directions: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl mix all of the dry ingredients together breaking up any lumps. In a separate bowl mix the eggs, oil, yogurt, and vanilla together. Add to the flour mixture and mix until just incorporated. Blend in the pineapple, cranberry, carrots, coconut, and walnuts gently. Line a muffin tin with paper cups and fill them ¾ full. Add a dollop of jam (I used apricot/pineapple) in the middle of each muffin top and slightly push it in. Bake for about 30 minutes or until toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Be sure to avoid the jam center when testing.